Spring's wetter and warmer weather encourages garden growth, of course, but those conditions also make weeds flourish. Now is the time to remove them, lest they grow, well, like weeds.
The key to successful weed removal lies in knowing which kind of weeds you have, because removal techniques vary. So, refrain from just ripping out weeds and identify them before you begin.
Weeds that grow from seed, like lambsquarters, chickweed, purslane, and some other grasses should be removed with a sharp-bladed garden hoe. You鈥檒l want to avoid digging down into the soil; that鈥檒l just bring up more weed seed.
On the next sunny day, take the hoe and scrape the soil surface. This will cut the weeds off at the soil line and keep them from spreading more seed.
Perennial weeds need a different approach. For weeds like burdock, yellow dock and quackgrass that have either strong taproot systems or rhizomatous roots, you'll need to get a bit dirty.
After a rain shower and when the soil is moist, get down onto the ground and dig them out using a tool like a CobraHead hoe. This garden tool has a short handle with a sharp, curved blade that can dig into the soil and pull those tap roots out.
This tool gets fairly deep into the soil to help loosen it up enough so you can pull out underground rhizomes, too. As you're weeding, consider that the more root systems you can remove now, the less you鈥檒l need to do this in the future.
Once you've cleaned out the weeds from your lawn, garden or border area, keep weeds at bay by adding a layer of mulch. If you have trees, shrubs or perennial flowers, mulch around them with wood chips.
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If you have vegetable gardens or annual flowers, use untreated grass clippings as a mulch, or even a layer of compost. These materials break down fairly quickly and that can help feed the plants.
Tenacious weeds, like goutweed or bishop's weed, need yet another removal approach. These need to be mowed down often to try to exhaust root systems. After mowing, cover the area with a weighted-down tarp and leave it on for a year or so.
After some time, try to dig out the weeds. You most likely won't kill them all using this mow-and-smother method, but you鈥檒l weaken the root systems enough so they are easier to rip out.
Is it moles, voles or both?
Q: We have both moles (underground) and voles (above ground) in our yard. We've tried different remedies to get rid of grubs, but it became apparent when the snow melted that the little varmints still like our yard as a home. What can we do to get rid of them and keep them out, or at least minimize their activity? - Eve, via email
A: Determining what to do to deter them depends on which critter you鈥檝e got.
Here鈥檚 how to tell: If you see tunneling on the surface of the soil in your lawn, it鈥檚 likely voles. If the tunnels go under the soil and leave little mounds of soil at the entrance or exit, those are trademarks of moles.
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Moles tend to not damage plants and bulbs, but voles, mice and chipmunks do enjoy eating them.
To remedy your lawn, look for horticultural-grade castor oil and spray that. It has a strong odor that both moles and voles don鈥檛 like.
What is eating the flowering bulbs?
Q: We have spent a fair amount of money on bulbs that we plant in the fall, and it seems that over the winter and into the spring - by the time we are ready to enjoy the flowers - someone has dug them up and eaten them. Could it be moles or deer? Do you have any advice on how we can deter them from eating all of our bulbs? - Rick, in Proctor
A: As far as protecting bulbs underground, next fall, plan to take some extra steps when planting.
Get some seashells (clam and oyster shells will work just fine) and crush them up. Then, each time you plant bulbs in the fall, pour a handful or two of the crushed-up shells into the hole with the bulb. Voles, mice and chipmunks don鈥檛 like the sharp texture and they鈥檒l leave your bulbs alone!
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One other deterrent method could work, too. Again, when you鈥檙e planting in the fall, mix in some daffodils, alliums and fritillaria bulbs. They don鈥檛 like the taste of them, and in avoiding them, may also leave your other bulbs alone, too.
Is there hope for an eaten-up rhododendron?
Q: I have a 20-year-old rhododendron bush. This winter for the first time, deer ate most of the green leaves off of it. There are very few buds appearing on it now, so it's not totally dead. It's mostly bare branches with no leaves, and looks very sparse. I'm not sure if this will come back and produce leaves again. What should I do? Prune it, leave it alone, cut it down? - Linda, via email
A: Here鈥檚 the good news: Rhododendrons will bounce back. And, they will grow from their old growth. Right now, though, you can protect that shrub with either some fencing or certain repellent sprays to help deter deer.
It may take a couple of years, but you will have a nice, blooming rhododendron once again.
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